Reef Builders - The Source for Reef Keeping Information

RudyPT · #1 (**permalink**) 01-14-2008

Last Monday (1/7/08) I finally began construction of my 230 gal project. I started with the framing of my prospective basement filtration room. I completed the hanging the drywall yesterday. I hope to begin construction of the actual show tank’s stand within the next couple days. With all the snow and no work, maybe I'll start today.

The tank will be positioned as a room divider of sorts, in a Peninsula fashion, located between a relatively quiet, i.e. no TV, living room and an eat-in kitchen area.

The plumbing will all go through the flooring into the filtration room (pictured) in the basement below and a 125 gal sump (minus refugium area).

To finally be working on the project at a serious pace is wonderful. I am doing just about everything DIY. The only thing I am completely unsure about is lighting. We have three children, so I definitely want a full canopy.

The two barrels, 50 gallons and 30 gallons respectively, depicted on the left of a couple of the pics, are full of cured Live Rock waiting patiently for their new home upstairs.

I plan to post new pics on this thread as my project progresses. Please feel free to send me any friendly advice or lessons learned.

I think I will require the most support during the plumbing phase. I am confident I can run the pipe, but I am unclear how to manage (balance) the flow. I have never had a sump at all, let a lone a tank this size.

Kind Regards

Marc Smith · #2 (**permalink**) 01-14-2008

Keith glad to see this happening.
What type of equipment are you going with? closed loop? Skimmer? reactors? Etc...

Just so everyone knows I have seen this tank in person, and it is going to be awesome. I might be able to dig the pics out of it when Keith picked it up.

RudyPT · #3 (**permalink**) 01-14-2008

Hi Marc,

For the sump return and the closed loop(s) I am likely going to use the following Blue line (BL70 & BL30) pumps.

http://www.aquariumpros.com/p-BL70HD,WPex.html

I think I am going to take a chance and try to build my own rudimentary skimmer once enerything else is set-up. I have seen some simple large PVC designs that work quite well with a decent air pump and a good diffuser.

I am not sure what I am going to do with regard to the reactors or if I will even need one for the forseeable future? I am sticking with only hardy corals until the tank is well established, i.e. a year, at least.

Since the sump is in the basement, I am hoping I will not need a chiller. Of course, I won't know until it is all up and running.

RudyPT · #4 (**permalink**) 01-14-2008

For the closed loop I also plan to use the Oceansmotions 4-way.

http://www.oceansmotions.com

RudyPT · #5 (**permalink**) 01-15-2008

OK - I'll admit, perhaps I am a little obsessive, but I have learned over the years there is no substitute for good planning.

To that end, tonight I made a 1:1 scale template of my tank (overhead perspective). I plan to use the template to help guide me through the stand making process, which will hopefully begin tomorrow evening. Especially when I drill holes in the stand top to accommodate the various drill holes and associated bulkhead fittings.

Or, perhaps I did this project tonight as some type of nervous tank build avoidance behavior?

RudyPT · #6 (**permalink**) 01-16-2008

Thanks Scott - But I am planning this time for the first time. I too, in the past, have subscribed to the build as I go philosophy.

As I said before, I am just trying to minimize my mistakes. I have no delusions about eliminating them.

RudyPT · #7 (**permalink**) 01-19-2008

I know these picutres are broing, but this is the DIY section of the Board.

Right?

Anyway Below you will find the following pics (left -right): Horizontal support joint, Corner support joint, Rough Framed tank stand (~50% complete). I am hoping to complete the faming by the end of the weekend.

Dragon2115 · #8 (**permalink**) 01-19-2008

Wow, nice job Keith. It's really starting to take shape.

RudyPT · #9 (**permalink**) 01-20-2008

Tank stand's framing is now complete, minus a couple reinforcing lag screws.

I know... I know.. I went way overboard with the support columns, but this stand is strictly for support.

I will have a couple small doors to access pipes/valves and store food. Otherwise, there is no need for a lot of extra space underneath. As long as I have enough to access in case of an emergency I am all-set.

One thing is fairly certain, the tank may leak one day, but I don't think i have to worry about the stand ever collapsing.

I Hope to start the finish work tomorrow.

mfreef · #10 (**permalink**) 01-20-2008

nice clean work on the stand..are you gonna have access panel for plumbing?

RudyPT · #11 (**permalink**) 01-20-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by mfreef

nice clean work on the stand..are you gonna have access panel for plumbing?

"I will have a couple small doors to access pipes/valves and store food. Otherwise, there is no need for a lot of extra space underneath. As long as I have enough to access in case of an emergency I am all-set."

thelastmucci · #12 (**permalink**) 01-20-2008

Keith this looks really cool..hopefully when I get my own house I'll be able to copy you and have an in wall mount like that with my very own fishroom ahh one can dream

mfreef · #13 (**permalink**) 01-20-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by RudyPT

"I will have a couple small doors to access pipes/valves and store food. Otherwise, there is no need for a lot of extra space underneath. As long as I have enough to access in case of an emergency I am all-set."

yeah was what i was hinting twoards. would suck to have a leaky pipe and no way to get to it! awesome job so far!!!

RudyPT · #14 (**permalink**) 01-21-2008

Another quick pick. No real change other than the addition of 1/2 plywood to the top. It is only tipped up at one end becuase I am moving it to atop the sawhorses and this was the best technique I could come up with to move it myself.

I hope to start adding the finish wood (Red Oak) evenings this week or next weekend at the latest.

Marc Smith · #15 (**permalink**) 01-21-2008

Whoaaa Keith!

keep it rolling, and if you need help Dave, and Rob is always free lol

graveyardworm · #16 (**permalink**) 01-22-2008

RudyPT · #17 (**permalink**) 01-22-2008

Can anyone advise me on how much working space I'll likely need to easily secure the bulkhead fittings to the bottom drill holes once the tank is seated atop the stand?

In other words, if the holes in the tank-bottom (closed loops) are pre-drilled to 2" D, what size hole(s) should I drill through the plywood to allow for access to bulkhead fitting(s).

Obviously, I want to maximize space, but not significantly compromise the stability in the area surrounding the multiple openings in the tank-bottom Does anyone know of a formula? Hell, I’ll be happy with a simple rule of thumb?

I was going to drill them all to 4 1/4" if it is not problematic? I already own a whole saw that size. Otherwise, I’ll go buy, or borrow, a smaller size.

RJDudek · #18 (**permalink**) 01-22-2008

4.25 would be no problem, 2 things, I doubt that the bottom glass actually rests flat on the top of the stand so the plywood is not supporting the glass around the holes, it is going to add stability to the stand and help to prevent racking but it should not be acting as a primary support for the glass. the best way to determine the space needed is to buy the bulkheads and see what space is needed to fit a wrench on the fitting nut. No reason to make it more difficult on yourself if you have to adjust or repair the fittings. I have 2" holes on my tank and I drilled 3.5" clearance holes. A true mistake, I cannot get a good angle with a wrench due to the plywood thickness and once the pipe is on the fitting you cannot go straight in with a basin wrench. Next time I am cutting a 12" oval in the fitting area.

RudyPT · #19 (**permalink**) 01-22-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by RJDudek

... Next time I am cutting a 12" oval in the fitting area.

Thanks - well I also have a 6" hole saw, but I figured that was TOO BIG! Perhaps not? Nevertheless, I think I'll stick with 4 1/4"

If your 3 1/2" holes are too tight to get a good grip with a wrench, how did you secure the fittings?

BTW, I have the fittings, or at least the ones that came with the tank They seem pretty heavy duty, but I really do not know much about bulkhead fittings. Perhaps, I'll do a dress rehearsal, minus the tank that is. Just the fitting, plywood, and a wrench.

Based on your comment about the glass not really being supported by the plywood/foam base; does that mean I could cut the entire 6" x 24" space in the plywood under the my overflow, rather than try to drill a bunch (4) separate holes? Just the holes themselves will eat up a significant portion of the plywwod in this area anyway?

Thanks for the help.

graveyardworm · #20 (**permalink**) 01-23-2008

I would cut out the rectangle. I drilled holes for mine and hought they were plenty big, but when you consider the bulkhead nuts will be recessed in the hole, getting a wrench on them through a hole can be a challenge. A large rectangle will give you plenty of room to work.