Reef Builders - The Source for Reef Keeping Information

1. What kind of heaters is everyone using and controller if they are using one?
2. What substrate? My first tank has play sand but have had a hard time with keeping ph right. How deep of a sand bed? Currently about 3"
3. What is every on using 2 part or reactors?
4. What lighting? I am currently using a 175MH over a 36 gallon cube.( I like the shimmer) But every one is saying T5?

1. I was using a Finnex controller and heater, but now I'm using an ACIII controller, a Finnex and Titanium heater.

2. For a deep sand bed I use sugar fine grade sand, 5+ inches. Its either that or barebottom. I've tried in between but it didt work well for me. Other people have had success with shallow sand beds though.

3. I'm using a combination of 2 part and kalk reactor. Once I get my room squared away I'll put my Ca reactor back online.

4. I prefer MH

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(' )< David >( ')

"The world is headed for mutiny when all we want is unity" Scott Stapp, Creed

1. ACIII - Finnex 300 W
2. Very DSB - 6 to 9 inches
3. Two part and DIY kalk reactor
4. MH

On the DSB, I had a DSB in both the display and fuge. Recently the fuge began emitting a foul smell. Suspecting the sand I remove it and the smell disappeared with it. For me that begged the question, "Why the fuge and not the display?" The best answer I have come up with is the quality and number of critters living in the sand bed. While the display has a vibrant colony of bristle worms, snails, and the like, the fuge was much less colonized.

I plan on adding more criitters soon.

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1) Ebo Jager .. (sp?) and ACJr I think this type of set up is the best... instead of relying on the temp controller of the heater ... turn the heater all the way up and let the ACJr turn them on and off... much more reliable and accurate IMO ... plus the Jagers only have (if i remember correctly) and deviation of +/- .5 degrees ...

2) i use a 1 to 2 inch bed in my display and a 6 inch DSB in my refuge .... but i'm starting to think 6 inches is too deep ....

Beds need to be deep enough so that zones are created in the bed. The upper levels have decreasing oxygen tension, and organic compounds are processed by aerobic bacteria. Lower in the bed, oxygen approaches near depletion and bacteria use the oxygen contained in the nitrates, produced at the upper levels, to further degrade organics but using the oxygen from the nitrate molecule. This anoxic zone is where denitrification occurs and is the main reason for having a DSB in the first place. Four inches is the suggested depth, but having slightly less usually doesn’t hurt. Extremely deep beds, on the other had, run the danger of becoming fully anaerobic at their lower levels. That is not an ideal condition and should be avoided. Even at 4-6” there are some anaerobic areas in any sand bed, but those over 10” are more likely to have substantial zones. This invites conditions where sulfates can be reduced to toxic hydrogen sulfide.

3) I use a reactor and Kent Turbo calcium and some seachem Mg supplement (can't even remember what one now lol ) but yeah .. your reactor is basiclly a alkalinity reactor that makes calcium too lol ... well .. nevermind... but i digress ... the reactor will keep up with your tank but most people find you still need to boost now and then with some sort of supplement once now and then to get things back up .... demand can change fast in a well lit tank with lots of corals as they grow... good idea to have something around to boost when needed! and i use a Kalk reactor when the lights are off to offset the PH swings at night ... dosed with an ATO

4) I use 2 x 250 watt HQI DE 14K Phoenix bulbs about 8" off the water's surface ..... the depth of my tank from substrate to water surface is only 18" .. some think i'm over doing it but i disagree ... matter of opinion i guess... along with 2 x 110 watt VHO Actinic

from what i understand T5s are pretty good. although i have no experience with them... a lot of reefers use them with great success ... from what i have read they give off decent PAR values and run cooler than MH ... but I'm all about MH ...

sorry for the long post lol !

oh and you do need some small ( not large lol) sand sifters ! Various worms, mini starfish, snails, copepods, burrowing shrimp and tiny sea cucumbers are all welcome members of the sand’s living community. They are very important, and without them the bed may go completely anaerobic in time. If these basic rules are followed, then we can have a bed that is productive over a long period of time. Like everything else in this hobby it does require some maintenance.

oh... and don't forget ... lighting should be determined by what you wanna keep! no need for MH if you don't plan on keeping SPS ... but you do get more bang for your buck! ...

ok i'll stop now lol

what type of substate are you using though?

I have Caribsea Aragmax for the bulk of the DSB with Caribsea SeaFlor Special Reef Sand for the top 1 inch. The larger grained top layer helps hold down the finer sand.

I added one bag of Oolite Arag-ALive to seed the sandbed. For a 120, I had about 250 pounds of sand.

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well i used a reef sand Caribsea in the main display and the sugar sized oolitic sand for the DSB in the refugium .... basically if you are going to do a deep sand bed sugar sized oolitic sand is what is recommended...

see i wanted more of a mix in the display so there would be more than just sugar fine in the display ... i think it looks more life like.... but like i said .... if you want a DSB in your display and you don't plan on having a fuge .... then i would use oolitic sugar sized .... if you have a fuge to use you kinda have more option ... up to you bud!